Weekend In Philadelphia

A few weeks ago, we took a trip to Philly to help our daughter move into her new apartment in Rittenhouse. Something about the whole Philly experience just makes me smile. We were listening to Teddy Pendergrass singing ‘Wake Up Everybody’ and gazing out onto Rittenhouse Square from our perch at the Rittenhouse Hotel, and it just felt right. This hotel was such a great find—one that we didn’t even know was there. 

Located right on the square, the hotel is steps from the park and La Colombe, a family favorite for the all-important early morning trip for a cappuccino. Founded in Philly, La Colombe locations are all over the city (if you’re staying in Fishtown, make sure to check out that location, it’s my favorite! And I always stop in the thrift shop, Jinxed, right next door!)

Just after our visit, we learned that “The Philly Sound… Heard Round the World” was made into a movie that debuted this week. It was based on the TSOP (the sounds of Philadelphia). There is something “groovy” about this city but it’s tough to put your finger on it. Famously Harold Melvin, Grover Washington, Jill Scott, Lou Rawls, BB King, Dusty Springfield, Billy Paul, the O’Jays, David Bowie, and The Roots, of which, most are from or started in Philadelphia and recorded at Sigma Studios -now a historical landmark. Phil remembers, “When I was a kid, we listened to WMMR 93.3 broadcast from Rittenhouse Square. They introduced David Bowie and his glam rock to the USA by playing his music and promoting his first US appearance, where he chose to perform at the Tower Theatre in Philly! I saw him live there in the 70s and it was unforgettable.”

After an 8-hour traffic-filled drive from the Cape, we opted to eat right in the hotel at the award-winning restaurant Lacroix, which has a French flair. From the moment we stepped in, it was wonderful!

Once predominantly a daytime destination, Rittenhouse Square is now a popular nightspot as well, with a string of restaurants including Rouge, Devon, Parc, and Barclay Prime that have sprouted up along the east side of the park on 18th Street. Soon to open on the Northside (Walnut St.) will be the new Steven Starr Italian-themed Trattoria Borromini (opening in January ‘25.)

Every weekend the farmers market on Rittenhouse Square (followed by an art exhibition in the afternoon) is bustling with people strolling with their dogs, and street musicians performing and entertaining…it is so festive and welcoming. (Philly’s authentic German Christmas Market opens in mid-November and runs through the holidays, in LOVE Park and City Hall!)

What’s so special about Philly? We think it’s a combination of the people who live there, all of the quirky neighborhoods, and the friendliness of perfect strangers who will spark a conversation with you. We had folks offer to save us a parking spot on the street. “No problem, go spin around, we’ll hold it for you”. Or it’s the restaurant scene – Philly has spots where restauranteurs can take a risk and get out there, push the limits of what a standard city newbie can do because it’s more affordable! In a variety of neighborhoods from the Italian market to the higher-end places in Center City – it’s all unique and worth a try. We rarely go to the same place twice and it’s always so much fun to decide where to go ahead of time. Our personal favorites (places I would consider going back to for a second round) would be:

• Vetri Cucina, Spruce St
• Parc, on 18th St
• Friday Saturday Sunday, Center City
• Osteria, North Philly
• le Virtu’, Passyunk
• And for BYOB – Giorgio on Pine, Pine St
  

There are so many wonderful casual restaurants throughout the city. Personally, we love all the varieties of pizza (as some here may know it’s my hobby) and good pizza is a thing in Philly, some of our faves are:

• Pizzeria Vetri, Sansom
• Pizzeria Beddia, Fishtown
• Angelo’s, Italian market
  • Make sure you call ahead of time, it’s in high demand and not easy for walk-ups!

One time, our friend invited us to the Palizzi Social Club, a members-only speakeasy in the Passyunk Neighborhood. Hidden in an unassuming rowhouse converted into a club on a residential street, you walk up to a door, a guy opens it just a crack and you say a password to get in. Once inside, you are transported back in time to maybe the 40s/50s, it’s dark and very low-key, and packed with locals enjoying a delicious array of small plate old-school Italian specialties. That is Philly for you, the most exclusive place in town is an understated Italian joint that most of the city doesn’t even know is there.

And of course, I can’t go back without getting a hoagie or a cheesesteak. There are many good ones so I’ll only list a couple:

• Tony Luke’s on Oregon – if you’re going to the game
• John’s Roast Pork

and if you come to one of my legendary tailgates we will be serving both of those along with “Ike Juice” (named after Ike Reese, the former Eagles linebacker) plus the Philly Soft Pretzels from the Philly Pretzel Factory (locations all over the city, but Oregon Ave or Sansom in Center City are the best!)

Skip the tourist traps like Pat and Gino’s!

Philadelphia is known as the “Mural Capital of the World” There are over 4,300 murals in the city. What started as an anti-graffiti program in 1984, Mural Arts Philadelphia is now the nation’s largest public art program. The program has uplifted neighborhoods through community-based public art in Philadelphia’s most unassuming locations. Stroll the city and look up beautiful art is everywhere!

We always make time to do a little junk hunting, these are my favorite stops:

• Philadelphia Salvage Company – 2234 West Westmoreland Street – By Appointment Only
• Philly Reclaim – 5200 Unruh Avenue
• Provenance – 1801 North American Street
• Beatty American – 1800 N American St 
• Architectural Antiques Exchange – 721 N 2nd St
• Goods Vintage – 1022 S 9th St

On a typical Sunday in the fall in Philly, the most important thing is- THE GAME. Some people know this fact and some don’t; Philly is a football city. Boston may have the Red Sox but Philly has the Eagles (better known as the Birds – and you’ll hear people yell ‘go birds’ all day long).

We were invited to the home game while we were there. To get the true experience, get there a few hours early to tailgate with the faithful. To avoid traffic and parking we take the Broad Street Line subway. It’s so easy, and the trains are jammed with enthusiastic and friendly fans. Once you arrive at the Linc and enter the parking lots, strangers invite you to join their tailgates. I swear if you wear an Eagles shirt, hat, or jersey you will be welcomed to the Eagles family! And don’t worry if you came ill-prepared, there will be stands of tables with vendors selling everything from T-shirts to denim bucket hats. It is heartwarming to know that even as an outsider you are included, no questions asked. They don’t call it the city of brotherly love for nothing. (Watch the movie “The Silver Linings Playbook” before you go for a little Eagles inspiration!)

If you like walking, Philly is for you! The city was designed in the 17th century, Center City is structured with long, straight streets running east/west and north/south, forming a grid pattern between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers. The Benjamin Franklin Parkway was modeled after the Champs-Élysées in Paris, if you stand at the top of the Philadelphia Museum of Art and gaze toward City Hall, it feels like you are in Paris!

Within steps of the Rittenhouse Hotel, we could be at the Franklin Institute or the Museum of Fine Arts (with the famous Rocky Steps) or down to the Liberty Bell and Betsy Ross House in Old City. There is so much history to be stumbled upon, and with the right pair of sneakers, you can get a lot of the city covered.

For those who are more shopping-inclined (like Sandra and my daughter Nathalie), there is a variety of great shops right off Rittenhouse. We love Boyd’s on Chestnut St for a fashion splurge, but make sure to check out the Urban Outfitters which is 4 stories, and packed to the brim because their headquarters are in the Navy Yard neighborhood of Philly. And the Anthropologie Store on Walnut St is always a source of creative/display inspiration!

This time in Philly, with our daughter all grown up and in her apartment, had me reflecting. Back when our twins were graduating high school, we looked at colleges all along the eastern seaboard. Who would have thought they would end up right at home in Philly? Back then, we decided to spend one night of our trip in the city. They wanted to visit Drexel so we decided to peak around town and ended up driving up to Temple University in North Philly. None of us had been there before, honestly, it was not even on the kid’s radar! We got out of the car, walked the neighborhood filled with students and smiling faces, and immediately knew we loved this place. Our daughter was originally thinking she wanted to go to Penn State, my alma mater, she loved the school spirit there. But when our son said I’m going to Temple within the first 30 minutes, she changed her tune to ‘Hey! It’s like Penn State only in a city.’ So, they both ended up graduating from Temple University and along the way, became Philly faithful.

Now full circle, our son lives in NYC and goes back to Philly every chance he gets, and our daughter is right back to where my roots are, and I couldn’t be more delighted. 

It’s yet another reason for us to hang out in Philly. The city we love….. that loves us back!